Here it is, one of my favorite most exciting things on the planet to do. How? Well, it's not rocket science, but it can be dangerous if you don't pay attention.
One thing I like to point out is that 90% of the sharks that we catch in Massachusetts are blue sharks. We don't eat blue sharks, so it's a catch-and-release effort. It is, however, the largest fish that most people are ever going to catch, so I love it. I love seeing the power that these fish can exert on a fisherman. Plus, we've caught 500 pound fish that were truly giants. Amazing fish.
Catch and Release...First, we use circle hooks when shark fishing. The hooks that I have are Mustad Duratin 16/0 circle hooks. They're large, but designed to hook the shark in the side of the jaw. They do it very well. Most sharks, when hooked there, are going to stay hooked. The key to hooking a shark in the jaw, in my mind is this. PAY ATTENTION. Why? If you don't, the shark could grab your bait and swim around swallowing and getting your bait into it's stomach before you know that something is happening. Much of this watching is done by myself and my mate, but it's nice too if you're watching. That's a blast. I don't like to "wait and wait and wait" for the shark to swallow the bait and get it all into their mouth. I've watched enough sharks from the roof of my boat and seen what they do when they grab a bait to know that they have big mouths. They don't nibble. They open their mouth wide and suck the whole thing in. At this time they start looking for more bait.
When I see action on a bobber, I instruct the fisherman to grab the rod and get it into the harness and into the fighting belt. The rod is tethered to the boat and most times so is the customer. I'm a big fan of the safety line. Just in case. Just in case you lose your balance. Just in case the shark takes a big run straight down and you are right along the gunnel. You could get hoisted right over the side. If the bobber is moving or underwater, the lever drag reel is engaged to 'strike' and I instuct the customer to reel steadily. When the line becomes tight, with the rod pointed at the fish, I tell them to reel 4 or 5 times very quickly until the line gets even more taught, then I have them set the hook once really hard. Then reel the line even tighter (about 3 more cranks), then another serious hookset. This is just to make sure that the barb is buried and the line is tight. We use mono for sharks, which tends to stretch. If there is a lot of line out, I will set the hook a third time as more line means more stretch.
Once hooked, that shark will make an initial run. Sometimes it's a crazy run and sometimes it's not much as the fish really doesn't know what's going on. In that case, it's very possible to get the shark to the boat quickly, but don't think it's over. When the shark sees the boat they usually go ape. Keeping your balance is key. If it's a big fish, we start the boat up and get the other lines in asap. Even blue sharks will run 200+ yards against all of the drag a 50 wide has to offer. We've had blue sharks almost spool us (500+ yards). Don't be lulled. And forget about makos...Seeing a big shark like that jump out of the water is amazing. We've gotten wet before as they've jumped that close to the boat! Yes, they are also one of the fastest, strongest fish in the sea! If your line goes slack at any time, point the rod at the "fish" and reel fast, as the shark may be heading back towards the boat.
BAITS AND PREPARATION FOR SHARK FISHING
Chum. Chum. And more chum. Also fish oil and blood. I don't like to move around when shark fishing. It's my belief that the fish WILL FIND you if you're in a good area. If not, that's fishing. So, find a good area for whatever reason--I like structure more than anything else where I fish--if you're in the right area, there'll be bait there because of the structure and the sharks will be monitoring that situation. Chum them up and you'll find them. Or they'll find you. One exception to this rule is the draggers south of Martha's Vineyard... Find them and be nimble enough to move near them so that you can set up and have them pass you by--the sharks will follow those draggers around and will detour to you. They will outchum you anyday and the sharks know it by now.
About setting up a chumslick...figure out where you want to fish--I like an area where a 4+ mile drift is possible because there is a day's drift, for the most part. First, stop the boat for about 10 minutes and see your direction and speed. If the drift is slow, head into the drift about an extra mile or so---then power chum for a mile at about 3-4 mph. You are kick-starting your chum slick for that mile. During that power drift, I like to have two buckets of chum going, one on each rear corner. I also like to be dripping fish oil. The oil floats, which does a couple of things. First, it shows you your drift history. And second, it calms down the water near the boat so you can see more clearly though the water (and see cruising sharks by the boat).
Setting the lines around the boat. We typically run 4 lines when shark fishing. We spread them out in the water column and back into the slick. The first line that we put out is the "straight down and close". We don't use a float, but have our weight (a medicine bottle filled with bb's that rattle when the boat rocks). We'll typically use a butterflied mackerel for this bait. The second line that we set out is the "far away and deep". We'll typically send this one down 150+ feet down with a glow skirt and a large bluefish fillet/mackerel sandwich. We then set out our "pretty far away and near the surface". This bait may be a butterflied bluefish or whole bluefish fillet (split-tailed). The 4th bait is going to be about 75' away from the boat and down 50-70'. We use a variety of baits here, such as a large local squid/Mario's giant squid strip, a mackerel/bluefish sandwich, or a whole mackerel with a bright skirt.
WHEN THE SHARK GETS CLOSE TO THE BOAT
Here is time to listen and everyone must know what their role is. I am a huge fan of wind-on leaders. We use 300# leaders that are about 20 feet long. We then have a heavy-duty swivel connected to 6' or so of single-stand wire. In this manner, you can reel right up to the point where the leader-man grabs the line without having any slack in the line. It is very important to keep any slack out of the line in case the shark takes a hard run at the boat. If there is any slack, it's very possible that the line will wrap around the rod or a person. That could be deadly, if not totally destructive. We used to use a 2-part leader and/or a longer wire, but I don't like having the leader-man deal with any loops of line around the boat with an angry shark on the other end of the line.
Their power at the boat is NEVER TO BE UNDERESTIMATED. Once the leader-man grabs the leader, we like to have the fisherman lessen the drag a bit in case the shark pulls the line free. In this case, there isn't a ton of pressure on the fish because sometimes it takes a split second for the drag to 'kick in' and the line may snap. With more line out, the line will stretch a bit as the drag starts. Matt Merrick has found that if he can keep the shark's head above it's tail, he can control it very well. Once the head starts pointing down or the shark gets it tail up above it's head, it's wise to release the line smoothly and just reel the shark back to the boat again. Seeing Matt almost hoist a 400 pound blue shark vertical in the water, I know this to be true.
Because we use circle hooks and most of our sharks are hooked in the corner of the jaw, we try to remove the hook from the shark's mouth as a clean release. We use an ARC dehooker, and we give it a good effort to pop the hook out.
FOR SHARKS WE'RE GOING TO KEEP This is what it's all about, right? Catching something that you can eat. For starters, if we have to measure it, we're not going to keep it. That's a pretty fair rule. The sharks only have to be 54" long, which is not a very large shark. It's also a great feeling releasing a keeper shark. For sharks, makos are great eating. Porbeagle sharks are very similar. The thresher also makes it to the dinner table. The dusky used to make it there, but it's not allowed anymore. Since the sandbar shark is so similar to the dusky in appearance, it gets to swim away, though it's a good-eating shark as well. Blue sharks are not to be eaten as "everyone says they're not edible".
So, what do we do when it comes time to land a shark? First, we clear the boat of all clutter. We pull all other lines from the water and store the rods inside the cabin or tight up against it. Get gloves on anyone and everyone who may be handling lines, harpoons, or flying gaff. We start the engine and position the boat to keep the fish off of the stern quarter. We can then fight the fish properly. With the harpoon ready and the flying gaff ready and the straight gaff ready and two tailropes ready...There's a lot to do. Our first choice is to hit the shark with the harpoon, buttonhooking the shark if possible right behind the dorsal fin. That is to say, we want to drive the harpoon shaft right through the shark. Keep that dart as sharp as possible, and then some. Hit it with a file before every trip and hit the shark hard. We hit it behind the dorsal fin because I don't want to pull the shark head-first towards the boat--one good swing of the tail and it could be jumping into the boat. Ouch.
We get the harpoon into the fish and control the fish with the harpoon line. We then like to bury the flying gaff into the shark's gills, wherein we can stretch the shark out nicely and use the straight gaff to the tail in order to get a tailrope on the shark. Once the shark is tailroped to the boat, it's officially yours unless your cleat rips off your boat! Just be careful and assume that the shark doesn't die for a while.
I like dragging the shark backwards for a while, all the while jabbing it the gills to bleed it out as much as possible. When do I like bringing the shark onboard? Well, I'm never comfortable doing this, but it does have to be done realistically. Just keep it's head away from you as much as possible and be ready to get a cooler between the head and the customers!!
“Be Prepared.” That is the name of the game. If you are going to go out there shark fishing, it makes sense to get a checklist together. If you have to load your boat for this “expedition”, make sure that you have a list and check it before leaving. We’re fortunate to keep all of this gear on the boat in case we encounter a shark while fishing for something else. Until you know the drill, work off of a list.
Rods, reels, line. Up here, the Standard size is a 50wide, two speed reel. We use Okuma Makaira 50II’s and Okuma Titus Gold 50II’s. You can definitely shark fish with more or less, but it’s what we use when we’re specifically targeting sharks. A matching rod with at least two roller guides—the top and then bottom guide should be roller guides. You can get by spooling the reel completely with 80 pound mono, or you can pack on 500 yards of 80 pound superbraid (Tuf-Line XP) and then top the reel off with 80 pound mono. This will give you more backing in case you hook into something huge and fast. The extra line buys you time to get chasing if necessary. When shark fishing, 4 rods is perfect, three is often fine as well. You could do it with two, even. We get paid to go shark fishing, so we use four so that we can cover different depths.
Terminal Tackle. That is to say, hooks, wire leaders, wind-on leaders, swivels, weights, bobbers, weights, tape. We’ll start at the hooks…I’ve been using Mustad 16/0 circle hooks since I started shark fishing and they hook sharks great and they hook the shark in the corner of the mouth 95% of the time. I attach those hooks to the single-strand (240# or 174#) wire leader via a haywire twist. http://www.fishermansoutfitter.com/p-904-AFW-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Leader.aspx ($12 for a ¼ pound coil). It is a very simple “knot” to tie and you’ll be able to do it in about 30 seconds. I start off with about a 7-8’ wire leader. This way, I can reuse it several times before it gets too short. At the other end of the leader, I attach a 370# or 550# SPRO swivel with a haywire twist.
I will use this swivel to attach the leader to the large snap swivel at the end of the COATED WIRE WIND-ON LEADER. This is the most essential part of shark fishing safety! This allows the fisherman the ability to reel the shark right to the boat without any slack in the line (over the head of the leaderman). This wind-on leader is attached to the main line via a loop-to-loop connection. You put a loop at the end of the main line with a bimini twist or simple spider hitch. I’ve never had a spider hitch fail. For weights, I use anything from 6 oz to 16 ounces and I tape the weights just above the snap swivel on the wire leader. Call Fisherman’s Outfitter for these leaders (about $15/each). http://www.fishermansoutfitter.com/p-715-Custom-Wind-on-Shark-Leader.aspx or 508-747-7440 Bobbers: These are the “line through” bobbers that come with a “plug” to pin the line to the bobber. When you get a hit, the plug pop out and the line runs through the plug and bobber. They’re perfect for shark fishing. When the weight and bait pull down on the bobber, it moves around and goes under. If a shark grabs the bait and swims towards the surface, the bobber tips over. I’ll use balloons in a pinch as well. http://www.fishermansoutfitter.com/p-712-6--Shark-Float.aspx They cost $5.Harness. This will save your arms and back. Get a comfortable “bucket”/gimble belt and a kidney or chest harness. The harness will be attached to the reel lugs with “j-hooks”, not hooks that close. In case of emergency, j-hooks release VERY EASILY. Whoever is the fisherman should have the gimble fighting belt on already as well as the harness…and it should be fitted. With shark fishing, there is no surprise as to who the next angler is going to be. There shouldn’t be! It’s a waiting game… when you’re waiting, the next person gets ready. Furthermore, if two rods go off at once, the guy second in line should know where his gimble/harness is and it should be ready to go (if you have two sets.) Even if you don’t have two harnesses, you should have two gimble belts. You’ll need it.
Gloves: Have a pair of leather or heavy cloth gloves on board for the leaderman and harpoon/gaff man. You don’t want to grab the leader EVER without gloves on. And never, never wrap the leader around your hand, even with gloves on. Make sure there is no slack line flying around the boat…it will catch on something or someone and that could be treacherous.
Wire Cutters. I bring three pairs or cheap cutters. You’ll lose them from time to time; I don’t sweat losing a $4.00 pair of cutters. They are part pliers/part cutters and they don’t have a notch at the base of the cutting area. That is to say, when you grab the wire with the cutters and slide the wire to where the parts meet, it can cut there. Not all cutters are designed that way. Keep them oiled when not in use and make sure that they work BEFORE your trip..
Rubber bands, electrical tape, balloons. I use electrical tape to tape the weight to the cable. Yes, you’ll lose weights, but they’re cheap. I sometimes use balloons in lieu of bobbers. Rubber bands are helpful around the boat all of the time. Fish oil and dispenser.. I love using fish oil to float on the surface of the water in our slick.. In effect, it marks the slick for us. Plus, it cuts down on the surface ripples, letting us see through the water more easily. It stinks and is slippery. Don’t spill it on the boat. We have dispensed it many ways…in an IV, in a commercial dispenser, and in a sports-drink pop-up-cap bottle. I prefer the latter. Tie it to a rope and hang it in the water. It’ll slowly leak out on its own. You can squeeze it from time to time as well.
Rags: See above…I have many on the boat. I usually keep one on the deck by where the fish oil dispenser is. It grabs the oil if it ever spills BEFORE IT GETS ON THE DECK. Keep clean rags around for your hands (oil man) and bait guys…
Chum dispenser: Best idea is a milk crate with large holes… Your chum bucket comes frozen in a 4 gallon square-topped bucket. Take the cover off of the bucket and put the milk crate over it. Flip the whole contraption over and tie the chum bucket into the milk crate so that it can’t come out. You’ll hang this over the side of the boat facing the chumslick. Keep the bucket in the water about ½ way. As the boat rocks, it’ll dispense. If it’s really calm, you want to dedicate someone to shake it for a while until it gets going well on it’s own. We use the gaff to hold onto the bucket…no bending over.
Gaff, harpoon, flying gaff, and tailrope.. If you’re going to keep a shark, know how to use these….Don’t straight-gaff a fish as your first contact at the boat…it’ll rip your arms off and break/bend/ruin your gaff. These animals go ape when you hit them. The harpoon is the safest (but not IGFA legal). The flying gaff can be used additionally….it can wreak havoc on your boat if you let the fish slam the boat with a 5 pound hook hanging off of it’s body. Be careful. We use the straight gaff to secure the tail briefly while we get a tail rope onto the shark.
Extra ropes, buoys, knives. Extra ropes are helpful in securing the animal. Use them like a safety. You’ll want to tie the end of the harpoon rope off to a buoy in case the fish is still green and takes off again once harpooned. DON’T GET STUCK IN THE ROPE!!!! Just follow the buoy if the fishing line breaks off. You will break knives on sharks if you’re not careful. I like serrated knives in many applications.. Remember, when you’re cutting a shark with a knife, you’re going to dull your blades very quickly.
Chum. The easiest thing to use is the frozen 4-gallon buckets of chum that you get at a bait and tackle store. Very convenient. I would bring two for most shark fishing trips; more if it’s rough with warm water. Sure, fish racks work fine, but I don’t want to spend all day chopping up fish myself. Shark fishing should be relaxing and enjoyable for all involved.
Baits. I like bringing lots of variety with my baits. Whole, large squid. Mackerel. Bluefish fillets. Whole bluefish. Pogies. These are all readily available.
Bolt cutters... If you ever get a shark hook through the hand, you'll never cut it with regular pliers. You'll need to have bolt cutters and test them on a hook ahead of time.
Extras. If the fishing is good and there are many sharks in the slick, you can use spinning gear for them. The main difference is in the terminal tackle is that you won’t use a wind-on wire leader as it will ruin the rod. I would use a wind-on 130# leader tied to a 3 or 4’ section of single strand wire. For the hook, since you would be selecting the shark you’d want to catch…for blue sharks to be released use a 6/0 Siwash hook….You won’t bend that hook with the pressure exerted from the rod/reel, but when it’s time to release it boat-side, one good yank on the wire and the hook will straighten out and the fish will swim away! Call Capt. Dom Petrarca for wind-on leaders…Contact phone and email: 401-207-4095 info@coastalcharterssportfishing.com Cost is 3/$45 or $17.50 each.
On my website, I have this checklist posted and plenty of more information for you. Additionally, please email me if you have any questions about your upcoming trip offshore and I’ll help point you in the right direction.
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